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Saturday, October 31, 2015

Bewitching and captivating temples of Belur, Halebidu & Shravanabelagola

If you are planning for a pilgrimage with some sight seeing,  historic tour & want to admire the marvellous ancient temples then head to Hasan district in Karnataka.  
We left very early from Bangalore on a historic tour of Belur, Halebidu & Shravanabelagola.  We took exit from 'Magadi road' of Bangalore & joined the Bangalore-Mangalore highway near "Kunigal' . We just zoomed through the excellent Bangalore-Mangalore highway & reached our first destination Shravanabelagola around 8:30am , about 160km from Bangalore.  

Shravanabelagola is pilgrimage of utmost importance in Jain Religion.  We quickly checked into the accommodation provided by Digamber Jain temple trust (situated near bus stand). Temple management also  provides food  to devotees. 



After having quick breakfast we started to climb the 'vindhyagiri' peak-hillock around 10am,  where the colossal statue of lord 'Gomteshawara' is placed & is the main attraction of Shravanabelagola. There are around 700 steps carved into the rocks to ascend to top & shoes are not allowed to carry. So if its hot day, you should wear sox.
During the ascend route you encounter few temples like e.g.  "Trikut temple" which contains beautiful statues of three 'thirthankaras' (Jain Lords) namely Aadinath, Shantinath and Neminath




We also observed some inscriptions  carved into rocks of hill,  in 'kannada' in praise of God & kings , & it is protected with glass cover. There are many captivating carvings & structures on the route, showing various subjects. 


As we reached on top around 11:30 we took 'darshan' of gigantic statue of   lord 'Gomeeshawara' , which of 58-feet tall & It is considered to be the world's largest monolithic stone statue. Every twelve years, thousands of devotees throng here to perform the Mahamastakabhisheka, a spectacular ceremony in which the statue is poured with milk, curds, ghee, saffron etc..  







There are small statues of all 24 jain 'thirthankaras' around the statue of 'Gomteshawara'.  The temple premises has interesting structures & rock carvings & its worth time spending there. 






           We got down the hill around 2pm & had lunch & then headed to the room. After taking the rest for some time, we spent the evening strolling around the streets of town & visiting other small temples. 

           Next day we woke up early & climbed the smaller peak-hillock called has  "Chandragiri " , its quite easy compared to 'vindhyagiri'  hill , with only around maybe 200+ steps. It was pleasant climb, as the sun was not harsh. Here too you will find many beauitiful Jain temples of 'thirthankaras'  like 'Parshwanath' , 'Neminath'.  





You can clearly see the statue lord 'Gomteshawara' on 'vindhyagiri' peak , from here & it looks enthralling.


We got down from "Chandragiri " hill around 10am , checked-out the room & left Shravanabelagola , to head towards in the early capital of the 'Hoysala' Empire i.e. Belur.

               Belur is located about 82km from Shravanabelagola  & ~30km from 'Hasan'.  From Shravanabelagola  , we crossed 'Channarayapattana' &  reached 'Hasan'. But instead of entering into  'Hasan' city , went from outer road on Bangalore-Mangalore highway & directly went to belur road on State Highway 57 , to avoid city traffic.  As we reached belur it was about 1pm & it was quite hot .

              The 'Hoysala' empire was a prominent Southern Indian Kannadiga empire that ruled most of the  state of Karnataka between the 10th and the 14th centuries. The capital of the Hoysalas was initially located at Belur but was later moved to Halebidu. It is said that young man Sala, who saved his Jain guru Sudatta by killing a Lion he encountered near the temple of the Goddess Vasantika at 'Angadi', now called 'Sosevuru'. The word "strike" literally translates to "hoy" in Hale Kannada (Old Kannada), hence the name "Hoy-sala".  During the 'Hoysala' empire  many marvellous temples were built & architecture itself known as 'Hoysala' architecture.  The popular ones , which exhibit an amazing display of sculptural excellance, include the Chennakesava Temple at Belur, the Hoysaleswara Temple at 'Halebidu'.

            The main attraction in Belur is the Chennakeshava temple , which contains the Chennakesava Temple (dedicated to Chennakeshava (Lord Vishnu) , meaning handsome Vishnu) as the centre piece, surrounded by the Kappe Chennigraya temple built by Shantaladevi, queen of king Vishnuvardhana.


 It is said that it took  around 103 years to complete this complete.  Inner sanctum of temple has intricate & bewitching carvings of various mythological figures & interesting patterns of design. The intricate design includes elephants, lions, horses, episodes from the Indian mythological episodes. Also the pillars are carved in very delicate manner.
   




One of the common sculpture depicting 'sala' killing the Lion , is carved at multiple locations , not only at this keshava temple, but also in all temples built during 'Hoysala' , including one at 'Halebidu'. If you are really interested in history, you should hire guide , who explains every details of various sculptures. After spending around one and half hour in belur we left 'Belur' around 3:30pm & headed towards 'Halebidu' , which is around 15km from Belur.
                            We reached 'Halebidu' around 4:15.  The city got the name "Halebidu"  (literally "old city") because during the early 14th century, it was ransacked two times by the Muslim  invaders from northern India like  Malik Kafur.   The main attraction is  Hoysaleswara temple  dedicated to Hindu god Shiva. It was built during the rule of King Vishnuvardhana of the Hoysala Empire in the 12th century. The construction was started around 1120 CE and completed in 1150 CE. The temple has two shrines and two superstructures, one for "Hoysaleswara" (the king) and the other for "Shantaleswara" (named after Shantala Devi, queen of King Vishnuvardhana) and is built with Soapstone. 




There are two big Nandi statues in front of each shrine. The walls of the temple are covered with an endless variety of depictions from Hindu mythology, animals, birds and shilabalikas or dancing figures. No two sculptures of the temple are the same. In all there are two hundred and forty such images/carvings.The intricate sculptures are found everywhere in temple premises , which leaves you spellbound. There is also beautiful garden in front of temple & its very tempting to spend time there particularly in evening.


There are few more attractions like Kedareswara temples and two Jain basadis(temples) , but we could not explore that. We left Halebidu around 6:30pm , enroute had dinner in Hasan and reached back Bangalore around 11:30 pm.

It really amazing , despite numerous attacks from outside invaders on India & each time they ruined the native monuments/temples , but still we have so much left & which is marvellous , beyond the description of words, so intricate & captivating. Its must visit to these temples , if you want to admire the grandeur of ancient India.

Note-
All temples in Belur, Halebidu & Shravanabelagola close by 6pm , so plan your visit accordingly.
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Thursday, September 24, 2015

Rejuventaing trek to the Horse's face - Kudremukh! & Kurinjal Peaks

            
  

          
           There are some treks which tests your stamina to fullest like KP (Kumar Parvata), but there are also treks which rejuvenates you to the fullest! , which gives opportunity to imagine how the heaven might be &  yes thats what I felt about Kudremukh trek - the forest of vast grasslands &  thick Shola vegetation.

            Set inside the Kudremukh national Park , Kudremukh (1894m) is 2nd highest peak in  karnataka  located in Chikmagalur district.  There are around around 13  trek routes inside the Kudremukh national Park which takes different peaks.  Kudremukh literally translate to Horse's face in Kannada & it is called so because the peak looks like Horse's face.


           Our group of 'Bangalore ascenders' started the journey to this paradise on friday night from Bangalore. Around 7 AM, we reached the  Bhagawati nature camp ( Set by KARNATAKA ECOTOURISM DEVELOPMENT BOARD (KEDB) , a unit karnataka forest department) , the  starting point for our 1st day's trek to Kurinjal Peak.  Bhagawati nature camp is about 10km from hillstation-cum-mining town of Kudremukh.  You need to take permission from forest department to trek anywhere inside the  Kudremukh  national park & also need to take their guide - irrespective you need it or not .. I guess that is innovative idea for rural job creation:-) ..  

            There are tents & dormitory accommodation available inside the camp.  We enjoyed a very scenic water stream, which flows besides this camp - its kind of trailer of what kind of beautiful nature  we will be experiencing in next two days.. 



The guys at this nature camp, arranged the breakfast of rice for us & same was packed for lunch.  We took just the necessary stuff & put all extra things in our bus & then we were set to conquer Kurinjal Peak. At around 10AM we started to trek.. 
                                                      
                  It was quite sunny. After walking on tar road for few meters, we took left to enter the forest region. The pathway is quite wide & clear. The landscape of mountains was just too good, which we were seeing after every few meters of trek.  



















As we enjoyed the trail through the forest, after about 4/5kms of trek, the  path becomes quite steep.   & by then  we were walking in open sky. The last patch is really steep. We reached the peak around 12:45pm. 





The vast panoromic view of greenary & mountains from the top, took away all our tiredness owning to the climb.  





We replenished our stomach with the lemon rice &  spicy pickle to satiate our taste buds. We started to descend around 1:30 & comfortably reached the base i.e. Bhagawati nature camp around 3:45 pm  & yes off course everyone did some blood donation - thanks to the leech bites during the trek ..  :-)

        Our bus then headed towards the 'Balegal' village , the place to start Kudremukh peak trek, is about 20km towards 'kalasa' town. Balegal is small village between Kalasa and Kudremukh village.  From  Balegal we hired private 4x4 jeeps to go to 'Mullodi' - place from where actual trek starts. Though we had option of trekking to 'Mullodi', most of us were quite tired. But jeeps could not accommodate all people, hence few guys volunteered to walk.   About 5km of adventurous jeep ride through muddy road, was definitely memorable.. Fortunately my internal body organs remained intact.. or at least I hoped so :-)

              We landed in the Rajappa's home stay- the de-facto place for most of Kudremukh goers - around 6:30pm & relished on the hot onion pakoda & tea..!  Home stay has basic facilities , but with arrangements like hot water , for trekkers it was nothing less than luxury resort . There is also small waterfall nearby. As some members had brought the tents , they pitched the same on terrace of home stay.  

             Meanwhile as it started to get dark , we experienced the most  beautiful scene in the sky. In the forest region , with very few electric lights around, our eyes were treated with the rare mesmerising sight of sky filled with billions of twinkling stars... It was really a one of the high point of trek.  It inspired me to experiment with some night photography... & thanks to Madhav, expert photographer in our group, who gave some tips to compose the click of star filled sky.  

It was really a soothing feeling to gaze at these billions of stars.  



By the time it was dinner time.  After which we sat in the open space in front of home-stay , & had a introduction around, where everyone shared their trekking experience  , future trek plans etc...  at around 10pm we decided to go to sleep , so that we can have enough rest for next day.

           As I got wake up around 5:15am , I could observe the  'venus' star , which was seen prominently due to its brightness & big shape. Delicious hot idali's were served for the breakfast & we got packed rice for the lunch , as we get set to trek kudremukh peak.  Considering yesterday's experience of leech attack, I decided to put some salt & snuff powder(a variant of tobacco product) inside the shoes to keep leeches away.  We completed few formalities in nearby forest department's check-post cum office & around 7:45 we started to walk. 

         The trail was interesting with where we were crossing some part through deep forest  & some part in open sky with moutains of lush greenery alternatively & in between crossing the cool crystal clear water streams. 









The landscapes here are just awesome.. straight out if picture frames. Weather too was playing hide & seek , though it was cloudy sky with little drizzle ; in between it was getting clear.  






Wherever till your eyes can see , you will get to see lush green carpet spread on cluster of mountains.. I felt if there is paradise somewhere on earth , then- it is this! it is this! it is this!  Nevertheless I had ample opportunity to capture these great landscapes in my camera.  















            Towards the end of trail , you need to climb couple of hills. As we were getting closer to the peak, it started to rain heavily, adding more excitement to the trek.  Finally around 12 noon we were at the Kudremukh peak.  Initially it was too windy & also raining.. so difficult to see the surroundings. But after some time it got clear .. & we got immersed in the beauty of the nature..  The clouds coming out from valley below, the green mountains ..all this is difficult to describe in words. 




     
                Meanwhile we had the lunch at the top & started to descend around 1pm. En route we could see some peacocks.  The long distance descend was taking toll on my  knees.   Finally around 5pm, we reached back at the home stay.  With total of 20kms of distance trekked - to&fro - we were quite exhausted.  
             We got freshened up , once again enjoyed hot onion pakodas & had light early dinner. After that we left the home stay & now it was time to re-experience the adventurous jeep ride to reach 'Balegal'.   Around 8pm we started the return journey to Bangalore from 'Balegal'  by our bus & we also had some fun time playing "Antakshari"... &  thus completed a very Rejuventaing two days trek in lush green mountains.
  
Thanks to Achintya/Pratap of 'Banagalore ascenders' to organise such a fantastic trek & allowing my last day registration :-) 


PS- One need to take forest department's permission & pay the entry/trekking fee (200/- + 225/- ) to trek anywhere in the Kudremukh national park.  So if you plan to trek two peaks then you need to pay 425*2=850/- per person. You can contact Rajappa's home stay to get complete these formalities.

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